Tag Archives: Christian Dior

Yves Saint Laurent exhibition in Denver

The highlight of my week-long business trip to Denver was the Yves Saint Laurent retrospective at the Denver Art Museum. It is the same exhibition that took place in Paris two years ago (and which I blogged on here). Once again, it was a great opportunity to remember Saint Laurent’s genius and wonder at his elegant, chic and oh so Parisian collections.

The retrospective starts with designs Yves Saint Laurent created when he took over the head of Christian Dior in 1958 after the passing of the great designer. Can you believe Saint Laurent was only 22 then?

Yves Saint Laurent then established his own house with his business and life partner Pierre Bergé. Some of his designs have become iconic and largely imitated though they were quite revolutionary at the time.

The suit for women is the most famous example. I remember being told of Saint Laurent’s friend and muse Nan Kempner wearing one to a restaurant in New York City. She was denied entrance because of it and decided to lose the pants so that the long jacket would give the illusion of a dress.

A room is dedicated to Yves Saint Laurent’s friendship with Catherine Deneuve and their collaboration on several of her films. I love the dress he designed for Belle de Jour in 1967; one would never suspect Séverine of hiding such naughty secrets with her strict and elegant look.

The 1971 collection was scandalous in its time. Critics called it vulgar and of bad taste, which I find ironic now that most designers dream of reaching this level of elegance.

Although Yves Saint Laurent rarely traveled abroad apart from Morocco, he was influenced by exotic lands like Africa, China and Russia. Likewise, his love of art reflected in his designs with dresses inspired by Mondrian and other artists.

The most impressive display is the tuxedo room showcasing the multiple variations of one iconic design over several decades. Yet the part of the exhibition that really took my breath away was the final one with the ball gowns. The picture below is only a small part of the display and not true to how elegant and beautiful it was. I wish I could have snapped away but – alas – a guard was glaring at me.

I truly believe Yves Saint Laurent will go down in history as the greatest designer of the 20th century. I wonder how Hedi Slimane, now head designer at Saint Laurent Paris, will use his heritage in his upcoming collections, if at all.

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The collection of Elizabeth Taylor at Christie’s

This week the Elizabeth Taylor collection will be auctioned away by Christie’s in New York, benefiting a cause that was so dear to her heart, AIDS research. Thanks to my generous friend Lani, I had the chance to admire this impressive collection of jewelry, fashion and other precious items along with Sarah and Mariah. I am ashamed to say I have never seen a film starring Elizabeth Taylor but observing her belongings is enough to make you realize that she was a legendary actress and larger-than-life character.

The exhibition started with the presentation of Elizabeth Taylor’s most precious jewelry, among which this set by Bulgari. To illustrate the love the actress had for this brand, here are a few memorable quotes:

“I would get so excited that I would jump on top of him and practically make love to him.” Elizabeth Taylor on her visiting the Bulgari store in Rome with her 5th husband Richard Burton

“I introduced Liz to beer, she introduced me to Bulgari.” Richard Burton

“The only word Elizabeth knows in Italian is Bulgari.” Richard Burton

As you can see, Elizabeth Taylor was no ordinary jewelry lover. While actresses today burrow these accessories and wear them only for the red carpet, Taylor would collect and wear them unashamedly every day.

Cartier diamond and ruby ring, necklace and earrings

Van Cleef and Arpels: I love the color association!

After the jewelry came the fashion collection with these elegant dresses from the late 1960s by Chanel, Tiziani and Dior (from left to right). Do you know Tiziani? This Rome-based brand had a certain Karl Lagerfeld as a designer at the time.

Late 1960s Dior again with beautiful spring-colored gowns.  Elizabeth Taylor also wore the brand quite recently with this red dress designed by John Galliano.

There were a lot of yellow dresses among Elizabeth Taylor’s collection, probably because the color complemented her fair complexion and raven hair so well. Sarah noticed how incredibly short the hemlines were in the late 1960s.

Do you think Liz liked feathers?

Elizabeth Taylor had an impressively large caftan collection; what you see in the 2 pictures of this post is just a tiny part of it. The actress launched this 1970s trend with her oriental and loudly-colored frocks.

It is interesting to know that Taylor decided to gain weight so nobody would offer her roles: she wanted to focus on her marriage to Burton instead of her career. Alas, it was a failed attempt: Liz did become curvier but she was still very much in demand.

Chanel bags, jewelry and suits

A mountain of Louis Vuitton. Liz Taylor would tag her luggage with the word “Mine!”

The last room presented the items related to Elizabeth Taylor’s acting career, such as her two Academy Awards for Best Actress. As we exited Christie’s, Liz gave us one last look through her portrait by Andy Warhol. The artist rightfully said “It would be very glamorous to be reincarnated as a big ring on Elizabeth Taylor’s finger.

Which memory of Elizabeth Taylor would you take from this collection? And which of her movies would you recommend me?

Demain marque le premier jour de la vente aux enchères de la collection Elizabeth Taylor par Christie’s à New York. Suite au décès de l’actrice en mars dernier, ses plus belles pièces de joaillerie et de mode ont été réunies pour servir la cause qui lui était si chère : la recherche contre le SIDA. Grace à ma généreuse amie Lani  j’ai pu admirer cette impressionnante collection accompagnée de Sarah et Mariah. J’ai honte de le dire : je n’ai jamais vu de film mettant en scène Elizabeth Taylor. Pourtant, il suffit d’observer ses biens pour comprendre qu’ils appartenaient à une légende du cinéma.

L’exposition s’ouvrait sur la fameuse collection de joaillerie d’Elizabeth Taylor dont cette parure Bulgari. Pour illustrer l’amour porté par l’actrice à cette maison, voici quelques citations : 

« I introduced Liz to beer, she introduced me to Bulgari. » Richard Burton (J’ai présenté Liz à la bière, elle m’a présenté à Bulgari.)

« I would get so excited that I would jump on top of him and practically make love to him. » Elizabeth Taylor sur ses visites à la boutique joaillerie avec Richard Burton (Je devenais tellement excitée que je lui sautais dessus et nous faisions presque l’amour.)

« The only word Elizabeth knows in Italian is Bulgari. » Richard Burton (Le seule mot qu’Elizabeth connait en italient est Bulgari.)

Comme vous pouvez le comprendre, nous avions affaire à une collectionneuse acharnée. Alors que les actrices d’aujourd’hui ne portent de la joaillerie empruntée que le temps d’un red carpet, Elizabeth Taylor portait ses pièces au quotidien et sans réserve, encouragé par son cinquième mari Richard Burton.

Venait ensuite la collection de mode, dont ces robes si élégantes de la fin des années 1960. De gauche à droite : Chanel, Tiziani et Dior. Connaissez-vous Tiziani ? Cette maison romaine avait pour couturier à l’époque un certain Karl Lagerfeld. Encore du Dior de la fin des années 1960 dans de beaux tons printaniers. Elizabeth Taylor a aussi porté les créations de cette maison bien plus tard, comme cette robe rouge créée par John Galliano.

La collection comportait beaucoup de robes jaunes, probablement parce que cette couleur seyait bien au teint pâle et à la chevelure noire de l’actrice. Moi c’est la longueur des robes qui m’a étonnée. Imaginez-vous porter ce modèle aujourd’hui ; on vous reprocherait sans doute votre indécence !

Elizabeth Taylor avait une collection impressionnante de caftans, dont vous ne voyez ici qu’une toute petite partie. L’actrice aimait porter ces vêtements d’inspiration orientale aux tons parfois criards  dans les années 1970 et contribua à les rendre populaires. Il faut aussi savoir que l’actrice avait décidé de prendre du poids pour ne plus recevoir d’offres de rôles car elle voulait se concentrer sur son mariage avec Burton et non plus sur sa carrière.

Une montagne de bagages Louis Vuitton. Elizabeth Taylor avait pour habitude d’étiqueter ses bagages avec le mot « Mine ! » (le mien).

La dernière salle était dédiée aux souvenirs de cinéma, comme ses deux Oscars de la meilleure actrice. Le couloir menant vers la sortie était orné de ce célèbre portrait d’Andy Warhol. L’artiste dit à propos de son amie « It would be very glamorous to be reincarnated as a big ring on Elizabeth Taylor’s finger. » (Cela serait tellement glamour d’être réincarné en tant que grosse bague sur le doigt d’Elizabeth Taylor.)

Quel souvenir emporteriez-vous d’Elizabeth Taylor? Et lequel de ses films me conseillez-vous ?

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