Les Marquis de Ladurée, Ladurée’s new chocolate boutique in Paris

Le Marquis de Ladurée store Instagram

Les Marquis de Ladurée is Ladurée’s new Parisian boutique entirely dedicated to chocolate. I discovered the place entirely by chance while strolling down the rue de Castiglione. My eyes were drawn to the dramatic macaron cakes in the window and, intrigued, I opened the door. I enquired through a salesperson about the history of the store. It turns out the director of Ladurée wanted to create a new brand entirely dedicated to chocolate and the place opened 2 months ago.

Le Marquis de Ladurée window Instagram

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I felt in familiar territory: Les Marquis de Ladurée inherited the mother company’s romantic and refined atmosphere, the pretty boxes that you want to collect, the elegant presentation and lively classical music. Yet, Le Marquis has an edgier side, notably through its design.

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The salesperson explained that the design of the store is an important element in the brand’s concept. Indeed, it recalls what makes French luxury so exceptional: a bridge between tradition, heritage and history on one side and modernity, technology and creativity on the other. The Marquis is the male counterpart of the girly Ladurée with its silver accents and concrete floor.

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Through their chocolates, Les Marquis de Ladurée wanted to emphasize on sensations with a clever balance between bitter and sweet, soft and crunchy, sophisticated and simple. Flavors of spices, flowers and fruits also add a pinch of surprise.

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You will still find macarons and pastries at Les Marquis de Ladurée, and of course, they are all chocolate-based. I would love to try them on a next visit but this time I bought myself a small box for 10 euros. (Yes I ate them all already. What do you mean I’m a selfish person?)

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Each bite was a surprise and a delight: all the chocolates are strong yet subtle in flavor. For example, the puffy milk chocolate sprinkled with coconut actually covered a half macaron with an exotic fruit ganache. My favorite was probably the Mathilde, the nut-decorated chocolate filled with rum-perfumed marzipan. The cameos I loved too: each was filled with a wonderfully perfumed ganache, either with rum, chestnut tree honey or Ladurée rose tea. Overall, I thought the chocolates were of excellent quality with both classic and surprising elements.

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I would highly recommend Les Marquis de Ladurée as a Valentine’s day stop. Ladurée is also celebrating the holiday with limited edition flavors and boxes, as seen in the rue Royale window.

Ladurée window Valentine

If you love Ladurée, be sure to check out this post, one of the most popular on my blog! And please don’t overdose on chocolate on Valentine’s.

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Les Marquis de Ladurée est la nouvelle boutique parisienne de Ladurée entièrement dédiée au chocolat. Je l’ai découverte complètement par hasard alors que je descendais la rue de Castiglione. Intriguée par les impressionnants gâteaux de macarons et la ressemblance avec la vénérable maison, je poussai la porte. La vendeuse me raconta la petite histoire : le président de Ladurée avait voulu créer une nouvelle marque entièrement dédiée au chocolat et la boutique avait ouvert il y a 2 mois.

Je me sentais en territoire connu : Les Marquis de Ladurée a hérité des traits de la maison-mère avec son ambiance romantique et raffinée, ses jolies boites à collectionner, son élégante présentation et sa musique classique enjouée. Mais le Marquis a les traits un tout petit peu plus dur par son design. Un élément important pour la marque d’après la vendeuse. Il rappelle l’essence du luxe à la française : un dialogue entre tradition, héritage et histoire d’une part et modernité, technologie et créativité de l’autre. Le Marquis est le pendant masculin de la girly Ladurée avec ses tons argentés et son plancher en béton.

A travers ses chocolats, Les Marquis de Ladurée a voulu travailler sur les sensations et un équilibre savant entre l’amer et le sucré, le doux et le croquant, le sophistiqué et le simple. De surprenants parfums d’épices, de fleurs et de fruits enrichissent les saveurs. On trouve toujours des macarons et des pâtisseries, et comme vous vous en doutez, tous sont déclinés autour du chocolat.

J’adorerais les essayer lors d’une prochaine visite mais cette fois je me suis offert une petite boite pour 10 euros. Chaque bouchée était une surprise et un délice : les chocolats sont d’un goût à la fois prononcé et subtil. Par exemple, le gros chocolat au lait recouvert de noix de coco recouvrait en fait une moitié de macaron associée à une ganache aux fruits exotiques. Mon préféré était probablement le Mathilde, le chocolat décoré d’une noix garni de pâte d’amande parfumée au rhum. Quant aux adorables camées, ils étaient remplis d’une merveilleuse ganache parfumée au rhum, au miel de châtaigner ou au thé à la rose. Bref, j’ai été très agréablement surprise par la grande qualité des chocolats et mes sensations à la dégustation.

Je recommanderais fortement Les Marquis de Ladurée en destination pour la Saint-Valentin. Ladurée aussi célèbre la fête avec des éditions limitées de parfums et de boites, comme vu en vitrine rue Royale. Et si vous aimez Ladurée, jetez un œil à ce billet, l’un des plus populaires de mon blog !

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My weekend in Paris

Opera Garnier Empty seats

Maman Ritournelle came to visit me in Paris last weekend. I owe my passion for art, dining and fine things to her so these 2 days were a succession of delights in her company.

We started by lunch at Angelina. As I could see on my Instagram comments, people have a truly affectionate relationship with this place. It takes you back in time with its refinement, and how delicious is the food!

Angelina Hot chocolate Mont-Blanc

My truffle ravioli was exquisite and the big finish was even better. The legendary hot chocolate with whipped cream and the mont-blanc are hard to top as desserts. I must confess I was completely stuffed afterwards and a stroll through the Tuileries Gardens was much needed.

We headed to the Musée des Arts Décoratifs for Fashioning Fashion {ongoing until April 14th}. The exhibition presented the evolution of fashion in Europe from 1700 to 1915. It was fascinating to witness the preciousness of the 18th century outfits, the outrageously large skirts of the past and fashion evolving according to history and social changes.

Fashioning Fashion

After dinner we spent our evening at Opéra Garnier. As I waited for the ballet to start, my eyes wandered on the colorful ceiling painted by Chagall. Never before had I noticed that it represented scenes of the most famous ballets and operas such as Swan Lake and Giselle.

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As for the ballet itself, Kaguyahime is a contemporary choreography inspired from the traditional Japanese tale of the Moon Princess and her adventures on Earth. The whole affair was entrancing: a mix of sensuality and athleticism danced on traditional Japanese music with loud drums, as you can see on this Youtube video. {ongoing until February 17th}

On Sunday, we headed to the Grand Palais to see the Edward Hopper exhibition on its very last day. Luckily our membership allowed us to skip the hours of wait outside the building due to the huge success of the show. Blog post to follow!

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After lunch at Mini Palais, we ended the weekend at the Théâtre de L’Odéon with Samuel Beckett’s Endgame. {ongoing until February 10th} I’m not sure I’d recommend this play if you’re in a bad mood but the actors’ performance and the dry humor were worth it.

Théâtre de l'Odéon

And now a new week has begun with its daily routine but my mind is filled with whiffs of hot chocolate, visions of precious antique dresses and dance.  Now tell me, what events does your ideal weekend include?

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New beginnings

Ines de la Fressange agenda

It’s been a little over 3 months since I’ve moved back to France. My 2-year contract in New York City ended in October and since I was missing the OId World, I decided to look for a new job in Europe. With no real lead in sight, I did the JFK-Charles de Gaulle trip one last time, was chauffeured by Papa Ritournelle to our home in Normandy, opened my inbox and – surprise, surprise – a valued contact from my now-old job was requesting an interview. Long story short, I was very fortunate to find a new position – and a new Parisian life – in a matter of weeks.

Tour Eiffel

So here it is, a new beginning. According to my new boss, my numerology number (5) means that I am in constant need of change and can easily break myself from old situations to start anew. So far, this has proven to be true. I am excited to begin this new adventure – especially in the city of Ladurée.

Ladurée

So what have I been up to? Santa (aka Papa Ritournelle) delivered a new toy (aka the iPhone) for Christmas and it is safe to say I am addicted to Instagram to document my finds. On top of discovering inspiring fun images every day, I love to share all the little things I come across in my new hometown of Paris. You can see the whole collection on my account Ritournelleblog; here is a little peek.

1. Hunting for an apartment in Paris and exploring the city while doing so

Sacré Coeur

Hôtel de Ville Paris

2. Gorging in France’s culinary delights

Macarons Ladurée

Eclair de géniePictures taken at Ladurée and L’Eclair de Génie

(Can you tell I have a sweet tooth?)

 3. Fueling my newborn passion for ballet

Opera BastilleWaiting for Don Quichotte to start at Opéra Bastille

Opera GarnierHeading to a live performance of the Bolshoi Ballet at a cinema near the Opéra Garnier

After catching the Paris Opera Ballet on tour in New York City, I have become obsessed quite interested in this art and waste spend a lot of time watching ballets on Youtube. I’m very excited I’ll head to Opéra Garnier for good later this year, among other things to see a new choreography for which Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci is designing the costumes.

4. Getting my fix of art in general

Musée d'OrsayMusée d’Orsay

Monet Orangerie

Monet’s Water Lilies at the Musée de L’Orangerie – so breathtaking in person

5. Getting my Hermès on

Hermès bracelet KellyA Christmas gift from Maman Ritournelle, who generously replaced the one the TSA at JFK Airport stole from my luggage (I’m still angry.) You may recall it was the topic of my very first blog post.

 Hermès carré Pégase

6. Freezing in a Parisian winter wonderland …

Paris neige Alexandre III

… and warming myself up in a cozy cashmere scarf

Louis Vuitton écharpe

7. Meeting with dear friends from abroad

Plaza Athénée

Tea at the Plaza Athénée with Milla (click here to read her fabulous post on our new tradition)

Sarah Louvre

Meeting my British New-York friend Sarah from Style on the Couch and her talented boyfriend William Williams

Notre Dame de Paris

Catching up with Hannah-Rose from Capture the Castle on a sunny afternoon and hearing all about her amazing trip

(For the record, I don’t hang out with bloggers exclusively.)

I hope 2013 has started well for you too and look forward to sending you blog posts from Paris. I promise I’ll try to be more regular ;-) Bisous!

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Miami Beach

Palm trees beach

Art Basel taking place earlier this month reminded me of my trip to Miami last summer. It was probably the first vacation where all I did was relax instead of running around to catch as many notable sights as I could. Most of my time was dedicated to lounging on the beach, driving around with beautiful landscapes in view and gorging on local food in excellent company.

Miami Art Deco Ocean Drive

The first thing I saw of Miami from the plane was palm trees. I remember being so excited as they’re the sign that you’re about to land in a warm exotic place.

Miami South Beach cabin

I’m usually not a big beach person despite growing up on the seaside, but give me warm clear water with sun and I’ll spend my days there.

Miami Art Deco Carlyle

We did however take in the Art Deco architecture on Ocean Drive with its many hotels.

Miami Art Deco 3 hotels

Miami Art Deco Avalon

Miami Art Deco Breakwater

Miami Art Deco Colony

Miami Art Deco Crescent

Along the way we came across Gianni Versace’s former mansion in front of which the designer tragically died.

Versace Mansion Miami

If you feel like shopping, The Webster is the place to go. Run by a French woman, The Webster is Miami’s version of Colette or Liberty.

The Webster

The Webster inside 1

The Webster inside 2

Another French-run place my friends and I were fonder of was La Sandwicherie. It’s the perfect spot to indulge in big sandwiches and delicious natural smoothies before hitting the beach.

La Sandwicherie

Other restaurants we enjoyed include Loews Hotel for their amazing breakfast buffet, the Italians Quattro and Bianca (at the Delano Hotel) and Icebox Café for its desserts. (Nobu was a bit of a disappointment.)

Speaking of the Delano Hotel, we loved the outdoor bar where you can lounge on giant pillows or in your own little tent around the shallow pool. And the cocktails are great too, which doesn’t hurt.

Delano Hotel

If you fly to Miami, do spend an extra 2 or 3 days in the Keys. The drive itself is a pleasure with beautiful landscapes and excellent restaurants along the way, like the Butterfly Café in the gorgeous Tranquility Bay Resort where we stayed. Breakfasting on sweet crêpes at the French-run Banana Café in Key West and dining at Marker 88 with the sun setting on the ocean were quite an experience too.

Sunset on the Keys

Snorkeling in Bahia Honda State Park was probably the highlight of my trip. It was exhilarating to observe the coral and tropical fish so up close.

Bahia Honda State Park Bridge

Anne's Beach

For shorter day trips, head to Key Biscayne. Once there, you can climb the stairs to the top of the lighthouse and take in the beautiful view before hitting the beach.

Key Biscayne beach

Key Biscayne Water

Are there any similar trips you would recommend me for next summer?

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Chanel’s Little Black Jacket exhibition in Paris

If you’re in Paris this weekend, I recommend you head to Chanel’s Little Black Jacket exhibition at the Grand Palais. After gracing the galleries of Tokyo, New York City, Taipei, Hong Kong, London, Moscow and Sydney, the exhibition has finally made it to Chanel’s birthplace.

What does the little black jacket mean to you? The piece was created by Coco Chanel in 1954 and has never ceased to be reinvented. Originally designed to be worn with a matching skirt as a suit, the iconic item is now famous for its versatility as the pictures of the exhibition can testify. Karl Lagerfeld likens it to a jean or a T-shirt. Like a little black dress, the timeless little black jacket is a wardrobe staple. It is actually Chanel’s most-sold ready-to-wear item.

There is an interesting short video on how the Chanel jacket is made here on the exhibition’s website. Aren’t you dying to get one now?

Karl Lagerfeld photographed more than a 100 celebrities of both sexes and all ages wearing the jacket styled by Carine Roitfeld. The resulting pictures are published in a book by Steidl that has sold over 100,000 units so far.

Here are a few of my favorite pictures. Which one do you like best?

Jane carrying a Birkin and her daughter Charlotte Gainsbourg next to… guess who?

Karl Lagerfeld took one single picture of Laetitia Casta for this shoot. By the way, did you see the editorial he made with her and his infamous cat Choupette?

French actress and director Maiwenn Le Besco is the face of Chanel’s current eyewear campaign.

The portrait of Micheline Chaban-Delmas, the widow of a former French Prime Minister, is one of Karl Lagerfeld’s favorites. It struck me for her elegance.

Inès de la Fressange and her teenage daughter Violette d’Urso below

This is Virginie Viard, the woman who makes the magic happen in Lagerfeld’s shadow as Chanel’s studio director. Free posters were given away at the exhibition and it’s the picture I chose to maybe one day hang in my Parisian apartment.

If you like this post, you might enjoy this one about a past exhibition of Karl Lagerfeld’s photography.

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Yves Saint Laurent exhibition in Denver

The highlight of my week-long business trip to Denver was the Yves Saint Laurent retrospective at the Denver Art Museum. It is the same exhibition that took place in Paris two years ago (and which I blogged on here). Once again, it was a great opportunity to remember Saint Laurent’s genius and wonder at his elegant, chic and oh so Parisian collections.

The retrospective starts with designs Yves Saint Laurent created when he took over the head of Christian Dior in 1958 after the passing of the great designer. Can you believe Saint Laurent was only 22 then?

Yves Saint Laurent then established his own house with his business and life partner Pierre Bergé. Some of his designs have become iconic and largely imitated though they were quite revolutionary at the time.

The suit for women is the most famous example. I remember being told of Saint Laurent’s friend and muse Nan Kempner wearing one to a restaurant in New York City. She was denied entrance because of it and decided to lose the pants so that the long jacket would give the illusion of a dress.

A room is dedicated to Yves Saint Laurent’s friendship with Catherine Deneuve and their collaboration on several of her films. I love the dress he designed for Belle de Jour in 1967; one would never suspect Séverine of hiding such naughty secrets with her strict and elegant look.

The 1971 collection was scandalous in its time. Critics called it vulgar and of bad taste, which I find ironic now that most designers dream of reaching this level of elegance.

Although Yves Saint Laurent rarely traveled abroad apart from Morocco, he was influenced by exotic lands like Africa, China and Russia. Likewise, his love of art reflected in his designs with dresses inspired by Mondrian and other artists.

The most impressive display is the tuxedo room showcasing the multiple variations of one iconic design over several decades. Yet the part of the exhibition that really took my breath away was the final one with the ball gowns. The picture below is only a small part of the display and not true to how elegant and beautiful it was. I wish I could have snapped away but – alas – a guard was glaring at me.

I truly believe Yves Saint Laurent will go down in history as the greatest designer of the 20th century. I wonder how Hedi Slimane, now head designer at Saint Laurent Paris, will use his heritage in his upcoming collections, if at all.

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The Palace of Versailles: visiting a royal past

Versailles has been quite in fashion this month. First, after setting its new J’adore campaign in the Galeries des Glaces, Dior released its “Secret Garden – Versailles” video.

Then Chanel showed its latest cruise collection in the gardens last week. This reminds me of my short trip to Versailles to see a fashion exhibition last summer. Papa Ritournelle had dragged me there as a child and I was too young to appreciate his encyclopedic knowledge in history. But reading Stefan Zweig’s excellent biography of the legendary queen after seeing Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette made me realize what a fascinating place the Palace is.

Let’s now push the gates to start our visit.

It is on this balcony that Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette appeared in front of an angry mob during the French Revolution in October 1789. People were aiming at the queen with their rifles but were soon impressed by her bravery.

King Louis XIV, who reigned on France from 1654 to 1715, is responsible for the magnificence of Versailles. During a traumatic childhood episode, the king’s authority was threatened and he had to flee Paris with his family. As an adult, the Sun King decided to have the Palace of Versailles lavishly modernized and adorned with the most beautiful gardens. The noble elite were compelled to inhabit the Palace, consolidating a system of absolute monarchical rule in France. They lived far away from the realities of the country leading up to the French Revolution.

The chapel is one of the key features of the Palace. Marie Antoinette married Louis XVI at this altar at the tender age of 15.

Then, you are certainly already acquainted with the lavish Galerie des Glaces (Hall of Mirrors) and its tall mirrors and heavy chandeliers. The gallery faces the peaceful Grand Canal. A perfect setting for balls and other festivities.

You then enter the King’s Private Apartments. The king’s awakening and going to bed were ceremonies to which being invited was a great privilege.

Likewise, the queen had her own apartments reserved for her personal use. Near the bed you can see an open door, a secret passage through which Marie Antoinette escaped in October 1789 when an angry mob marched on Versailles.

Imagine Marie Antoinette waking up to this view.

I ended my visit at Angelina which has a tea parlor in the Palace. It was my first time tasting their legendary hot chocolate, and let me tell you, it was divine! A sweet pleasure Marie Antoinette would probably have loved herself.

Have you ever visited Versailles? What are your impressions on the Palace?

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